BadlanzHPE - Manufacturing High Power Exhausts.

In 2002 a friend of mine purchased a cutout from a competitor and showed me how it worked. I thought it was pretty cool, so I designed my own, and installed two of them Spring 2003 on my '79 Chevrolet Monte Carlo. The difference is the opening for a 3-inch pipe can only achieve a 2 5/8 inch butterfly. When you buy a cutout via the Internet, all that is taking place is bleed-off from the normal exhaust system. Only about half of the exhaust air is blowing out the cutout, where the rest goes out the back. I wanted to achieve full exhaust airflow out the side or out the rear. Plus with a cutout under the vehicle, it creates extreme vibration, if not piped out the side of the car. My Monte Carlo actually ran worse when the side pipes were open and rear pipes closed, and vice versa. I could only achieve good engine power when both rear and side pipes were half-open. I went to my engineer and he designed the flange adapter so I could achieve a full 3-inch opening, using a 3 1/2 inch butterfly. This way I am achieving full 3 inch opening without \"bottlenecking\" the system. Plus the flange adapters will work on any size pipe so all sizes will have "FULL FLOW". The flange adapters will bolt on to any existing Y-adapter cutout, without any modifying of the bolts on the cutout. Most Y-adapters come with very short bolts, thus having to replace them with longer bolts. I did not have one problem, Summer ’03, using the older style cutouts. That gave me enough confidence to invest lots of money to design and manufacture my own cutouts. I knew the risks of having 4-cutouts, such as failure to open and thus blocking the exhaust flow, which would stall the engine. I installed one switch to open and close the cutouts simultaneously, so I would not risk forgetting to open the sides while the rear pipes were closing. I just inverted the wiring on the rear motors so they would turn in opposite direction. This actually worked much better than anticipated. Installing a pipe in front of the cutouts (similar to an X pipe setup) would prevent engine stalling due to a cutout not opening. Heat hasn't been an issue either. I am using a flexible EPDM rubber cap to protect the motor, which exceeds 600 degrees F.

In 2007 I decided to invest in a CNC Mini Mill to machine my own parts. I hired a company in Des Moines, Iowa, CREATIVE WORKS,INC. and completely re-designed the valves to eliminate leakage. This new design works flawlessly. All BadlanzHPE,Inc. race valves and other accessories are machined and built right here in the U.S.A. I feel I have an excellent product, with enough real world testing for reliability, and performance.

Charles Gerst, President,